The pastry and bread spread at Superba Food & Bread for last week’s media preview was monumental, with platters of olive chevre muffins, buttermilk drop biscuits, smelt sourdough bread, thin Roman-style pizzas, and at least 20 more sweet and savory offerings. The situation had the feel of a honeypot, where all these baked goods were too good to be true. In a way, they were, thanks to the considerable talents of bread baker Jonathan Eng and pastry chef Lincoln Carson, who previously presided over the Mina Group’s sweet efforts.
Of course I had to pitch in and make sure the baked goods met with minimal waste. In the end, it was the Testa Croissant, a collaboration between Carson and executive chef Jason Travi, that left me floored. Travi produces porchetta di testa in-house using meat from the pig’s head, which he subsequently marinates with garlic, fennel seed and salt, rolls, ties, and slow cooks for 16 hours before slicing. Carson’s croissant is state of the art, with flaky, buttery dough that’s burnished on top, a sprinkling of sesame seeds, and thin slices of Travi’s porcine secret weapon inside. The testa croissant comes with shallot jam, pickled seasonal vegetables, and costs $7 at Superba Food & Bread. Grab your skateboard and go.