When Chris Phelps, Zak Walters and I first met in March, it was clear that they had noble plans for Salt’s Cure, their West Hollywood butcher shop and café. They spoke of humanely-raised, impeccably-sourced animals, bought whole, primarily in California, and butchered in-house. The chef-owners debuted in July and started with lunch before rolling out weekend brunch and dinner. My first visit involved potted pork, the jar sealed with snow-white hog fat. Unfortunately, pork bellies were still curing in back, so scoring a fix of their vaunted bacon had to wait. Thankfully, on my second visit, no jonesing was necessary, as Phelps and Walters incorporated bacon into their 2 x 2 x 2 ($13), their take on a classic breakfast platter: eggs, bacon and sausage.
The price of the platter raised expectations, and so did the restaurant’s high-minded ethos. The meaty slabs of bacon featured streaks of fat, but they were firm, chewy and practically caramelized. The bacon wasn’t as overtly salty as other versions, allowing the hog’s natural flavor to shine through. The color was also more muted, making me think that Phelps and Walters showed restraint with chemicals and preservatives. The juicy, loosely-packed chorizo patties were griddled to an outer crisp. The accompaniments consisted of a crumbly biscuit served with a dish of fresh fruit jam, a single fried egg, roasted cherry tomatoes and an orange wedge. Was the 2 x 2 x 2 worth $13? Yes, and it easily outshined the duck hash. Two wrongs may not make a right, but apparently two pigs do.
Dose of Vitamin P spotlights my favorite pork dish from the previous week.