Considering that L.A. County houses approximately 400,000 Chinese-American people, the dim sum scene moves at a pretty languid pace, even in the community’s San Gabriel Valley epicenter. Decade-old places like Elite Restaurant, Lunasia, and Sea Harbour still get mentioned as standard bearers, which is as much a credit to their long term viability as the lack of exciting new competitors. My in-laws turned me on to China Red in Arcadia, which has yielded delicious dividends, particularly when it comes to sheng jian bao and tripe dishes. 2017 brought about Longo Seafood Restaurant, a somewhat higher end, more seafood leaning option in Rosemead with a checklist menu.
“Signature dim sum” items include lobster dumplings and black truffle shumai, which both feel a bit like gilding the lily. Instead, I’d suggest Scallop Dumplings ($4.89) that provide luxury at a relative value. Steamed dumpling purses with thin translucent rice flour skins contain sweet shrimp and silky sea scallop and come dressed with tobiko, tiny bursting flying fish roe. A quick dip in soy sauce or a dab in spicy mustard are all these dumplings need to reach dim sum euphoria.