It threw me off to see $13 desserts on the menu at SPQR. This was basically a neighborhood Italian restaurant when Nate Appleman was in the kitchen. Clearly, my impressions were outdated. Since Matthew Accarrino became executive chef in 2010, Shelley Lindgren’s restaurant has become more ambitious and progressive. Plating is now more advanced and sourcing is more intensive than ever. Yes, those $13 dessert price tags are justifiable thanks to options like the Blond Chocolate Panna Cotta.

For the SPQR blond chocolate panna cotta, versatile Chef Accarrino incorporates a new Valrhona chocolate style called Dulcey. To make Dulcey, Valrhona basically caramelizes white chocolate, adding depth of flavor and a toasted quality. Dulcey helped provide a silky base for airy coconut espuma, crisp caramelized coconut shavings, salted caramel, and apple crumble. This dessert was a delicious study in textural contrast that delivered savory flourishes.