“The best in Southern California.” That’s quite a claim from LA Times deputy Food editor Betty Hallock. She was talking about Nikuman-Ya, Kenichi Usui’s stall in Gardena’s Marukai Market, which has become a culinary beacon for shoppers (and eaters) in the South Bay. I was compelled to drive to the South Bay the day the article first ran to devour their pan-fried Japanese dumplings, which are just available on weekends. Hallock just might be right in her best-in-SoCal assessment. No surprise, since she has a firm handle on Japanese cuisine.

The Nikuman-Ya operation is simple enough. Order at a stainless steel counter next to a glass fronted kitchen, where the chef makes and fills wonderfully thin dumpling skins. Nikuman-Ya gyoza crisp up on the griddle and wear savory caramelized flour skirts. Nikuman-Ya sells Gyoza (7 for $6.25) with pork or chicken filling, but let’s get real. Chicken dumplings are for the birds. Of course I ordered pork, which were juicy, scallion flecked beauties that arrived in seven conjoined wrappers. Restaurant stall staffers provide soy sauce for dipping, if you need any embellishment, though gyoza this good stand alone.

Dose of Vitamin P spotlights my favorite pork dish from the previous week.