Not many Doses of Vitamin P have centered on seafood, but when in Baja, that’s where pork comes into play. Unlike Baja-style fish tacos in L.A., which are mostly fried in vegetable or canola oil, Ensenada cooks have no qualms about cooking with manteca (lard). Better yet, Los Originales Tacos de Pescado does it twice to achieve maximum color and crunch on the coating.
strong>Street Gourmet LA founder Bill Esparza led us to Juana Ortiz Bardon’s tiny blue booth in downtown Ensenada, which has been open for about 20 years. Her stand’s fish tacos (12 pesos ~ $1) feature cazon, a small shark known in English as dogfish. She fries firm, juicy fillets until the light batter achieves a golden, crisp coating. The fish appears on a warm corn tortilla and is dress-able with a wide array of condiments, including several salsas, which change daily, and of course crema and crunchy cabbage. My bar-raising taco also received a scoop of pico de gallo and a drizzle of chunky, bright red salsa starring chile de arbol, rough cut cabbage and a surprise gob of queso fresco.
Dose of Vitamin P spotlights my favorite pork dish from the previous week.