It’s ironic that chef Josef Centeno’s new roast pork trompo at BäcoShop in downtown Culver City features “Uyghur spices.” The Muslim minority, which China continues to persecute in Xinjiang province, would never eat pork. Still, this unlikely combo pays dividends at the globally inspired chef’s continually evolving Bäco Mercat spinoff.
“I have always loved Uyghur cuisine,” Centeno explains. “It is so unique with a lot of flavor.” He loads a trompo (rotisserie spit) with stacks of pork shoulder, belly, and bacon with varying textures and fat contents. He lavishes the meat with Sichuan peppercorns, garlic, Marash pepper, ginger, cumin, Aleppo pepper, Lampong peppercorn, hot paprika, and sea salt. As always, nobody spices like Centeno. Staffers shave luscious fat-streaked slices, griddle, and serve on supple house-baked bäco flatbread with pepper, pickled beets, crunchy cucumber, shaved radishes, cilantro, and mayo for $11.50.
Bäcorritos feature the same ingredients, but more meat, rolled in a thinner flour tortilla, for a buck more.
Dose of Vitamin P spotlights my favorite pork dish from the previous week.