I get it. The tomahawk pork chop at Chi SPACCA has the catchy name, and it’s certainly an impressive serving of meat. Chad Colby’s signature dish, weighing in at 42 ounces, combines the loin and belly, grills over almond wood, and gets seasoned with fennel seed and fennel pollen. Earlier this year, I named Chi SPACCA’s chop to the dineLA list of The Best Pork Dishes in Los Angeles. However, in retrospect, that’s not even my favorite pork dish at Chi SPACCA. I would now bestow that title to their Milk Roasted Pork Loin.
Roasting pork in milk is a traditional Italian preparation that The Minimalist author Mark Bittman credits Marcella Hazan with popularizing, based on her recipe in the “Essentials of Classic Italian Cooking.” At Chi SPACCA, the meat-focused arm of the Mozza Restaurant Group compound in Hollywood, Colby takes a bone-in pork loin and slow-cooks the meat in a wood-burning oven in a bath of milk and shallots, resulting in juicy slices of pork rimmed with melting fat, which get draped with fresh, aromatic sage. The pork emerges pale pink, but the milk accumulates color, caramelization and sweetness. If you’re missing fennel pollen, Colby even dusts the loin with more of that porcine pixie dust. For $65, this is another costly beast on Chi SPACCA’s menu, but certainly worth ordering with a group.
Dose of Vitamin P spotlights my favorite pork dish from the previous week.