A parking sign featuring a bearded goat with twin horns makes the focus clear at Han Mi Jung, a restaurant that’s promised “the taste of Korea” just south of Koreatown since 2012. Goat is a particularly popular ingredient in Korea, and Han Mi Jung’s menu makes many lofty claims about the meat’s health benefits. “What Goat Does: strengthens muscle and bone, fatigue and lethargy, helps prevent complex diseases and anemia, purifies blood, promotes digestion, increases stamina, softens constipation, restores skin tension, improves diabetes, and helps maintain body heat.” In the name of clean living, I ordered two different goat dishes.

I found Goat Marinara ($20.99) even more satisfying that bubbling goat stew. Goat has a gamy reputation, but I enjoyed their tufts of lean red meat and tender stomach strips stir-fried with garlic, perilla leaves, chives, wild sesame, and ground red chiles until the plate achieved craveworthy balance. Each order comes with purple-tinged rice and basic kimchi to round out a comforting meal.

Han Hi Jung also hosts “Goat Live” nightly at 6 p.m., which sounds like a talk show for animals – or animal lovers – but is actually a $60 feast pairing one whole goat leg with two goat stews. Han Hi Jung sells four legs per day from a single goat.