If there’s one fish you shouldn’t feel bad about eating, maybe it should be triggerfish. According to National Geographic, the colorful, bottom dwelling species is known to wreak havoc on reefs. Males also keep harems, when they’re not biting human divers. This brings us to Ronin, where chef Matt Abergel and Lindsay Jang built on their international acclaim with Hong Kong yakitori, Yardbird, by opening this seafood focused bar. Bonus: Ronin serves a stupendous triggerfish dish.

In the sign-free restaurant’s 14-seat counter and standing room only back bar, Abergel, Jang and their staff deliver seasonal, contemporary Japanese fare. The menu lists Raw, Smaller and Bigger plates from lightest to heaviest, including a stunning Smaller plate featuring Triggerfish ($150HK ~ $21). Chef Abergel pan-fries firm filets with a sweet and spicy mix of honey, Kyoto shichimi togarashi, and brown butter, which coat the triggerfish in ideal proportion. Better yet, the fish comes topped with crispy quarter-sized chestnut discs, which provide great textural contrast. These chips are similar to banana chips, but more savory. Triggerfish might be a scourge of the seas, but in Ronin, the fish reaches its culinary potential.