If there were ever a fish you shouldn’t feel bad about eating, consider the triggerfish. According to National Geographic, the colorful, bottom dwelling species is known to wreak havoc on reefs, with males keeping harems, when they’re not biting human divers. Which brings us to Ronin, the seafood-focused follow up to chef Matt Abergel and Lindsay Jang’s Hong Kong yakitori, Yardbird, which drew international acclaim since opening in 2011.

In the sign-free restaurant’s 14-seat counter and standing room only back bar, Abergel, Jang and their staff deliver seasonal, contemporary Japanese fare, with Raw, Smaller and Bigger plates listed on the menu from lightest to heaviest, including a stunning Smaller plate featuring Triggerfish ($150HK ~ $21). Chef Abergel pan-fries firm filets with a sweet and spicy mix of honey, Kyoto shichimi, and brown butter, which coat the triggerfish in ideal proportion. Better yet, the fish comes topped with crispy quarter-sized discs crafted from chestnut, which provide a great textural contrast, similar to banana chips, but more savory. Triggerfish might be a scourge of the seas, but in Ronin, the fish reaches its culinary potential.