Maruhide Uni Club, a find from LA Times deputy Food editor Betty Hallock, features sea urchin in more than a dozen forms, gracing pasta, capping sushi, and marinated in different sauces. No dish rises above the $20.80 threshold, startling considering the quality and quantity.

My Sea Urchin, Salmon Roe & Scallop Bowl ($20.80) would have cost three times as much on the Westside. A large bowl arrived with a base of warm steamed white rice, fibrous shaved jicama, crunchy cucumber slices, and slippery kelp. The kitchen staff must have harvested creamy gonads, which resemble Dijon hued tongues, from two whole urchins. Salmon roe delivered more sweetness and salinity, and sea scallops were firm but silky. Maruhide Uni Club also included sweet omelet slabs studded with uni, and a bowl of clear soup bobbing with even more uni. Sea urchin is an acquired taste and texture for a lot of people, but if you’ve acquired it, like I have, then rush to Torrance for this bowl.