For people who crave aggressive flavors in Los Angeles, East Borough is quickly becoming one of my top picks. This “Fraîche Vietnamese” restaurant in downtown Culver City is a potent new partnership between East Borough Costa Mesa co-owners John Cao and Chloe Tran and American Gonzo Food Corporation co-founders Paul Hibler and Jason Neroni. They’ve quickly shown enough culinary firepower for the Culver City incarnation to become a regular haunt.

East Borough is an upgrade in ambition, atmosphere (and alcohol) from the young couple’s more casual concept at The Camp anti-mall in Costa Mesa. In some instances, the flavors are even a little too pungent for my wide-ranging tastes. That was the case with the blue shrimp they bathed in crab paste butter. Other dishes hit the savory mark. Consider the rack of Lamb Ribs ($17) lacquered with tart tamarind and spicy Sriracha. Crunchy crushed peanuts, brightening Thai basil and cilantro contributed additional texture and completed the tender meat’s concentrated flavor profile.

Sadly, too often, restaurateurs tone down Asian flavors to “protect” seemingly timid Westside palates. That clearly won’t be the case at East Borough. The owners call themselves “cyclo bandits,” and with culinary engines revving, have stormed Culver City.