On Wall Street, insider information can lead to fines, sanctions and jail time. In the food world, it’s hard to imagine a downside. Prior to our recent meal at Cooks County, chef Daniel Mattern swung by the bar before we sat down to dinner and he dropped some knowledge about two new dishes: crostone with house-cured pancetta and poached duck egg, and grilled Niman Ranch pork ribs with roasted yams, applewood smoked bacon and spring onion rings. It was instantly inevitable that we’d order the two plates, and both dishes delivered, but the ribs reigned supreme. They weren’t smoked, but would feel at home in Texas Hill County thanks to the smoky flavor from the wood grill and stripped bare presentation (i.e, no sauce). The featherweight baby onion rings put the Bloomin’ Onion to shame, and the yams added a hint of sweetness.
Dose of Vitamin P spotlights my favorite pork dish from the previous week.