Chef Ray Garcia and former FIG running mate Jacob Shure recently opened B.S. Taqueria in downtown Los Angeles with restaurateur Bill Chait. They took over Mo-chica’s former home and added a pink, yellow and orange color scheme. You’ll also find kitschy-fun items like an elephant piggy bank, and faux avocados. Decorative maracas hang from strings, and a back room resembles a cacti filled desert.

I accepted a lunch invite to B.S. Taqueria. Chef Garcia clearly knows how to have fun. His ambitious menu appears behind smiling staffers on a bright orange wall. Bags combine lemon pepper chicken chicharrones, chicken oysters and shishito peppers. Matzo-inspired masa ball soup is a fun twist. Campechana verde goblets hold considerable ocean life. B.S. serves assorted tacos on house-made corn tortillas. If you’re lucky, your tacos will tout Clams and Lardo ($10).

Just like Garcia did at FIG, he layers flavors. A salsa base combines diced lardo, onion, cilantro and serrano chiles. Plump shelled Manila clams cook in their juices with lime juice, serrano, green onion, and butter. Crispy garlic chips and lardo roasted with onion, chiles and garlic provide a finishing flourish. These tacos have flavor to spare, but salsa caddies rest on each table. Request spicy orange salsa crafted from habanero, garlic, red peppers, tomato, and vinegar to boost flavor even further.