Could we be witnessing the dawn of a new dining era in Hollywood, a time when aren’t limited to hotel drivel, bohemian coffeehouse fare and club food that only makes sense after bottle service? If so, Brendan Collins is at the cutting-edge with Birch, a restaurant with clean lines and international influences a stone’s throw from Hollywood & Vine. The space features a grey awning, wall-mounted planters, black steel with “birch” cutouts, and actual birch twigs that serve as spines for the drink menu. This birch theme pays “homage to chef Brendan Collins’ hometown of Nottingham, England, where he grew up near a copse of birch trees.”
The menu draws on influences from California, India, Italy, and the Middle East. The Pork Shank ($26) is a particularly impressive dish, with a slate plate supporting a large shank, slow-cooked with palm sugar until the meat becomes sticky and pulls easily from twin bones. Punchy cole slaw starring pickled onion strands and cilantro, tangy yogurt sauce and a coil of sturdy, pull apart za’atar flatbread form the basis for flavorful pork roll-ups.
Dose of Vitamin P spotlights my favorite pork dish from the previous week.