At Three Seventy Common, a corner restaurant in Laguna Beach with skylights, mezzanine with curved copper railing, and an open kitchen with a wood grill that gorges on grapevine clippings and cherry wood, chef-owner Ryan Adams cranks up the creativity and flavor. Adams, who’s also a partner in Santa Ana’s The North Left, doesn’t actually need foie gras for either purpose, but as he proved during a recent dinner, it sure doesn’t hurt.
In February, California lifted a ban on the controversial fatty fowl liver, which comes from either a duck or goose. Now, Three Seventy Common’s menu reads “Foie Gras It’s Back!” The costs ranges from $26-32 and preparations frequently change. Adams previously served seared foie gras on caramelized Guinness bread with quince puree, pickled persimmon and sherry-walnut vinegar. Seared foie also joined vanilla confit pineapple, macadamia nuts and crusty grilled bread. During my hosted dinner, Foie Gras ($28) was a play on breakfast, with scored and rich seared Hudson Valley duck foie plated on huckleberry pancakes with a streak of sweet tart huckleberry sauce, crushed hazelnuts, crisp applewood bacon and maple syrup. Are these the pancakes of my youth? Not at all, but they may be the pancakes of my dreams.