A pie-shaped space in downtown L.A.’s Fashion District, long the domain of Café Angelique, received a recent upgrade thanks to the owners of The Tasting Kitchen. An upstairs dining room and bar showcase modern gastropub fare from up-and-coming chef Casey Lane and his chef de cuisine, Mike Lee, plus inspired cocktails from bar manager John Coltharp. However, it’s not always worth waiting for nightfall to visit The Parish.
Downstairs is the domain of talented pastry chef Brooke Mosley, who also oversees sweets at The Tasting Kitchen and upcoming sister establishment, Itri. In the morning, order from counterpeople who pour Handsome Coffee while presenting pastries on wood planks and silver pedestals. Food and drink then matriculates to an outdoor patio or to indoor tables.
At The Tasting Kitchen’s weekend brunch, biscuits play more of a supporting role, but they’ve scored a lead downtown, cradling fillings both sweet and savory. We opted for savory Sage, Eggs & Sausage ($4) on a buttery biscuit crafted with premium Plugra butter and buttermilk.
We of course had to return to experience Beignets, which Mosley fried to order, striking a great balance of airy substance. Dusted with powdered sugar, served with a ramekin of berry jam, the beignets became more than mere fried dough.
Buttery pastries, biscuit sandwiches and beignets may not necessarily appeal to neighborhood fashionistas, but that just leaves more morning time Parish creations for us.