I try to keep an open mind in general, but especially when it comes to donuts, which can still qualify as wondrous, even when they don’t match the childhood idyll. The crullers, raised and cake donuts of my New Jersey youth aren’t anything like the crispy, gargantuan Apple Filled Donut ($7.75) at Simmzy’s, the growing gastropub chain from Manhattan Beach-based brothers Chris Simms and Mike Simms, and that’s totally okay.

I was recently invited to have lunch at the Burbank branch, which features an Astroturf patio with twin cornhole courts, an airy dining room with aqua booths, and a bar backed by kegs and fronted by stylish tile and red cushioned stools. After taking down a salmon sandwich, cauliflower and craft beer (a Simmzy’s strength), I sat staring at an imposing donut.

Executive chef Jonathan Schwichtenberg said this donut is labor intensive, and I can see why. The crispy exterior is basically a dough shell that a chef needs to wrap around diced apples tossed with cinnamon sugar. The ring is glazed and topped with a scoop of vanilla ice cream that’s plumed with a mint leaf. The dessert, which could easily weigh a pound, drops anchor in a shallow salted caramel pool studded with crushed pistachios. Share the sweetness, if possible, since the combo of glaze, ice cream, apples and caramel can get rich quick.

Simmzy’s now has four locations: Manhattan Beach, Long Beach, Burbank and Venice. As the Simms brothers grow their brand, they’ll be smart to take the apple filled donut with them. Based on their business (and donut) dealings so far, I get the sense they are, and will.