Korean-style pork spare ribs are not cut like other styles I’ve experienced. Thin wing-like flaps are kept attached during the butchering process, leaving a lot more surface area to pick up char on the grill. In L.A., Hamjipark is the most famous pork rib practitioner, now with two locations in (or near) Koreatown and a third branch in Buena Park. Just one block from Hamjipark’s northernmost outpost, Rib Service recently opened in K-Town’s busy Alexandria Plaza and was clearly inspired by their more famous neighbor, though the owner does take the menu and decor in slightly different directions.
Rib Service’s photo-friendly dining room features a dragon mural set against spiraling waves, and a pair of white angel wings on black backdrop that doubles as Instagram bait. Still, pork spare ribs are the real draw.
Black plates host either spicy or salted pork spare ribs set on onion beds, sprinkled with clipped scallions and sesame seeds. I found the “spicy” ribs fairly sweet and preferred their juicy salted pork spare ribs.
Lunch combos ($15.99) also come with salad, some simple banchan, and a choice of stew. Earthy soybean stew co-stars clams, zucchini and tofu. Kimchi jigae incorporates soft tofu and fat-streaked pork belly in a spicy chile-flecked broth.
Dose of Vitamin P spotlights my favorite pork dish from the previous week.