Some dishes still have the ability to surprise me after more than a decade of dedicated eating. Case in point: chicken wings, a working class wonder that’s found a spot on seemingly every trendy menu in the Bay Area, California and beyond. However, Phnom Penh House, a popular Cambodian restaurant from Linda Do and brother Ty Do, has been winging it with particular flair in Oakland’s Chinatown since 1986.

Slaap Moarn Borg ($10.95) consists of boneless, crisp-skinned chicken wings stuffed with a juicy spiced blend of ground pork, bean threads, black mushrooms, with a crispy thatch of fried lemongrass coating the wings. Phnom Penh House staffers plate this prized poultry creation with a sweet chile sauce and a tangy pile of pickled cabbage and carrots, with enough punch to cut the richness of the meat in this chicken encased cornucopia. To call the oversized chicken wings boneless at Phnom Penh House isn’t quite accurate, since the radius and ulna bones remain intact. Still, that misnomer is actually to your advantage during their devouring, since each winglet makes for a great handle when dipping in sauce.

Update: the Do family expanded their Phnom Penh footprint from Oakland to Alameda in 2017.