Some dishes still have the ability to surprise. Case in point: chicken wings, a working class wonder that’s found a spot on seemingly every trendy menu in the Bay Area and beyond. However, Phnom Penh House, a popular Cambodian restaurant from Linda Do and brother Ty Do, has been winging it with particular flair in Oakland’s Chinatown since 1986.

Slaap Moarn Borg ($10.95) consists of boneless, crisp-skinned chicken wings stuffed with a juicy spiced blend of ground pork, bean threads, black mushrooms, with a crispy thatch of fried lemongrass coating the wings. The Do family plates the dish with a sweet chile sauce and a tangy pile of pickled cabbage and carrots, with enough punch to cut the richness of the meat in the poultry cornucopia. To call Phnom Penh’s oversized chicken wings boneless isn’t quite accurate, since the radius and ulna bones remain. Still, that misnomer is actually to your advantage, since the winglet makes for a great handle when dipping in sauce.