“Affordable indulgence” or “conspicuous consumption?” In this economy, it’s a matter of perspective. However, if a caviar emporium can thrive anywhere in L.A. these days, it might very well be on Robertson Boulevard, a retail strip best known for chic design, art and fashion boutiques. On May 27, Petrossian, the Paris-based family, hosted a lavish party to celebrate the reopening of their expanded West Hollywood location, and also to commemorate 20 years on the West Coast.

David Davis of L.A. based Studio Davis went with a clean and simple design, transforming the former Petrossian office space into a contemporary, airy boutique with a 15-foot ceiling, multiple display cases and a communal “Tasting Table.” The color scheme: grey cerulean blue and deep blue-grey Galucha. The adjacent café, which used to house the entire retail operation, now hosts casual seating (and for the party, a DJ). You’ll also find sidewalk tables along Robertson Boulevard framed by iceberg roses and gardenias, to name just two flowers. Art from nearby Walter Findlay Gallery rounds out the look.

It’s no secret that the Petrossians specialize in caviar. The family has been the industry’s leading purveyor since 1920, when brothers Melkoum and Mouchegh Petrossian founded the original location in Paris. The family now owns boutiques, restaurants and cafes in Paris, Monte Carlo, Manhattan and Las Vegas. In West Hollywood, they stock prestigious imported roe like Tsar Imperial Sevruga ($428 for 30G) and Royal Ossetra ($189 for 30G).

You might not know about Petrossian’s California-farmed white sturgeon caviar, which is significantly more affordable than their imported counterparts. Chataluga Prestige runs $35 for 30G, and the priciest option – Alverta President – runs $123 for 30G. “Here’s a small indulgence that no longer requires splurging since American caviar is now affordable and a way to support the California economy,” says Armen Petrossian, the son of the original founders. “And, in our time of uncertainty, we all need a moment of pure pleasure – what can bring one more satisfaction than a taste of caviar?”

Guests received tastes of sturgeon roe on warm, springy blini with dill-laced crème fraiche.

The Petrossians also shared bursting trout roe, presented in similar fashion.

For variety’s sake, waiters served crostini topped with foie gras mousse and whipped cream cheese, plus refreshing gazpacho.

Petrossian also stocks fine foods and gifts that appear on tables, shelves, and in display cases, including artisanal chocolates, olive oils, mustards and smoked fish.

The Petrossians hired chef Benjamin Bailly, most recently the sous chef of L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon in Las Vegas, to create a menu that would showcase the Petrossian caviar. Specialties include Carnaroli Risotto ($16) with “Kamchaticus” crab royal and poutarge and Napoleon Tartar ($24) – steak tartare with a layer of caviar. You’ll also find roe-free options like Entrecote a l’echalote ($24) – strip steak with shallot confit, baby spinach and wild mushroom fricassee. Dishes cost $9-28, with caviar dishes beginning at $28.