For about four years, I worked in a television production office at Sunset Gower Studios. At that stage, this part of Hollywood was pretty beleaguered. When I left TV for food writing, there was never any reason to return. The last time I made a point to visit the corner of Sunset Boulevard & Gower Street, Mr. Brainwash was painting pop art at a breakneck pace. The footprint for this formerly faded Hollywood building on the northwest corner has since given rise to Columbia Square complex. Tenants include branches of NeueHouse and Sugarfish, a modern coffeehouse named Rubies + Diamonds, and a restaurant called Paley that the owners named for legendary CBS chief executive William Paley.

A dining room with gold and wood accents, open kitchen with marble counter, and patio with planted succulents set the scene for seasonal American food from Chef Greg Bernhardt, opening chef from Church & State. My favorite plate starred a Pan Seared Salmon ($22) fillet with rosy center and crispy skin sprinkled with flakes of Maldon sea salt. Seasonal accompaniments included heirloom cherry tomatoes, bursting with bright acidity, crunchy cross-sections of raw fennel, and softer cooked fennel Provencal.

I’m still waiting to experience a salmon dish that rises to the level of work of art, but Paley did manage to prepare one of the better preparations I’ve tried in recent memory.