A downtown Arts District building from the 1920s that produced gas meters is now home to Officine Brera, an ambitious Italian restaurant with towering ceilings named for a neighborhood in Milan. Chef Angelo Auriana and business partner Matteo Ferdinandi also run The Factory Kitchen around the corner, and where that outlet is more pasta focused, Officine Brera caters more to meat. Their wood oven, rotiserie and grill alternates between almond and orange wood, producing proteins like leg of lamb, Mary’s chicken, or the occasional fish.

Stinchetto di Maiale ($29) features a pork shank wood oven-roasted with aromatic herbs that’s plated upright with a bookends of cavolo nero and polenta. The meat is sticky with sauce and jus, with big chunks of juicy meat that pull easily from the bone. The accompanying green might change. After my meal, I saw Swiss chard replace black kale on the menu. Expect subtle variations, but good news, this dish appears to be a mainstay.

Dose of Vitamin P spotlights my favorite pork dish from the previous week.