A downtown Los Angeles Arts District building from the 1920s that produced gas meters is now home to Officine Brera. Chef Angelo Auriana and business partner Matteo Ferdinandi named this ambitious Italian restaurant with towering ceilings for a neighborhood in Milan. The seasoned restaurateurs also run The Factory Kitchen around the corner. The Factory Kitchen is a restaurant concept that is more pasta focused, while Officine Brera caters more to meat. Their wood oven, rotisserie and grill alternates between almond and orange wood, producing smoky, fragrant proteins like leg of lamb, Mary’s chicken, or the occasional fish.

Stinchetto di Maiale ($29) features a pork shank that Chef Auriana roasted in Officine Brera’s wood oven with aromatic herbs. He plated the pork shank upright with cavolo nero and polenta serving as bookends. The meat is sticky with sauce and jus, with big chunks of juicy pork that pull easily from the bone. The accompanying green might change. After my meal, I saw Swiss chard replace black kale on the menu. Expect subtle variations, but good news, this standout pork dish appears to be a mainstay at Officine Brera.

Dose of Vitamin P spotlights my favorite pork dish from the previous week.