Don’t get me wrong. The northern Thai repertoire of NIGHT + MARKET chef Kris Yenbamroong runs deep, and even without pork (or meat), he can still generate plenty of flavor. Still, nearly every visit to my favorite Sunset Strip restaurant has yielded the standout pork dish of the week, including Fried Pig Tails and Chiengrai Stew.
The no holds barred restaurant always comes on strong during dineLA’s Restaurant Week. Believe it or not, one of my favorite dishes from the $35 prix fixe menu was actually a vegan kao soi with turmeric, tofu and mushrooms, but a more predictable pork knockout was Tub Hwan. The Isan style pork liver “ceviche” featured creamy flash-cooked slices that probably delivered the most satisfying texture from any pork liver to date. The rest of the bowl featured counterbalancing flavors and textures, including tart lime juice, savory fish sauce, spicy chiles, crunchy onions, a shower of scallions and herbs, and gritty toasted rice powder.
After my latest meal at NIGHT + MARKET, I’d consider going meat-free if Kris Yenbamroong is cooking in the kitchen, but sure am glad that pork liver didn’t slip by.
Dose of Vitamin P spotlights my favorite pork dish from the previous week.