Mozza Salumi Bar [CLOSED]

Italian Food Los Angeles


For people who are interested in pork, they might as well have screamed, “Woo Pig Sooie” when they opened the doors to Mozza for their very first Salumi Bar on May 31. The famous hog call of football-crazed University of Arkansas Razorback fans wasn’t directed at the menacing wild pigs that roam Southern woods. Instead, Arkansans use those three words to urge on football players at Donald W. Reynolds Stadium in Fayetteville. And just like in Arkansas, it shouldn’t be long before Angelenos hear Mozza’s call and head to the multi-use Scuola di Pizza space between the Osteria and Mozza 2 Go.

Colby and crew worked for more than a year to set an L.A. County public health precedent so they could dry-cure meat in-house. The menu’s right sidebar did a good job of conveying their cause, including Scuola Salumi Facts like, “It took over one year to approve the Mozza Scuola for its dry cure case – Chef Chad butchers a whole sustainably-raised Heritage pig every two weeks in the Scuola to make our delicious salumi.”

Italian Food Los Angeles
We opted for dealer’s choice, any five house cured salumi for $22, drawn from four categories: Whole Muscle Dry Cures, Dry Cured Salami, Smoked & Poached, and Pate & Terrine. They pretty much hit every mark, including a slab of pork butter; beautiful fat-streaked coppa with concentrated pork flavor; ribbons of lardo, which melted beautifully on the warm gnocco fritto, savory beignets, which cost $4 extra; silky poached cotto; a drier, spicier Tellicherry pepper salumi; and off-menu oregano, which Colby added as a bonus.

Italian Food Los Angeles
The semi-firm pork butter went great with the flaky, multi-layered buttermilk biscuits, $4.

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Mixed Pickles ($4) included peppers, shallots, fennel, carrots and cucumbers and contributed a light acidity to help counterbalance all the rich meat.

Italian Food Los Angeles
Colby sent out three different dishes of contorni, normally $5 each, including hearty lentils with carrots and more…

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…creamy polenta that could have been courser, to my taste, finished with olive oil…

Italian Food Los Angeles
…and cool shell beans with parsley and oregano, lemon vinaigrette and slow cooked cherry tomatoes, with acidity that paired well with Mozza’s house-made sausages.

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We had two different kinds of sausage, including skewered coil of thin lamb sausage ($6) bound with beef fat, which was firm and flavorful.

Sausage Los Angeles
Still, my favorite bites were of the plump pork belly sausage patties ($6), seared on a flattop in the open kitchen and seasoned with anise, garlic and pepper.

Mozza Salumi Bar is probably best for a snack or light meal, but they do offer a pair of Secondi, Hanger Steak and White Trout. We ordered neither.

Italian Food Los Angeles
The Mozza Salumi Bar required plenty of research, dedication and due diligence on the part of Chad Colby and the Mozza crew, and diners are finally reaping the rewards. We’d encourage Angelenos to patronize the Salumi Bar, not just because of the precedent – which wouldn’t be reason enough – but because the food’s interesting and flavorful. Sooie!

Address: 6610 Melrose Avenue, Los Angeles, CA 90038
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Joshua Lurie

Joshua Lurie founded FoodGPS in 2005. Read about him here.

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