Lost At Sea made me forget what I know about the tuna melt, a typically humble teaming of canned tuna, bright yellow cheese, and bagged bread. The seafood restaurant from chef Tim Carey and business partner Santos Uy in Old Pasadena launched a weekday lunch menu that includes a devastating tuna melt; talk about three words I never expected to pair.

Lost At Sea’s Albacore Tuna Melt ($13) features juicy Tahitian tuna fillet boiled with Old Bay seasoning, blended with mayo and herbs, and served warm with melted Fontina Valle d’Aosta cow’s milk cheese on buttery rustic bread produced at nearby Seed Bakery. The combo may not sound all that exciting, but in Carey’s hands, the sandwich forms a beautiful golden crunch on the griddle with a skirt that spills from the bread that’s alternately gooey and crusty. Two dill pickle spears provide a tart foil to this beast of a sandwich, which could easily result in an afternoon nap.