Flores is a seasonal, globally inspired small plates restaurant that never quite captured the imagination of Little Osaka ramen heads and comfort food fiends. Thankfully, that allowed Amal Flores to open Ladies’ Gunboat Society at Flores in conjunction with The Hart + The Hunter co-chef/co-owner Brian Dunsmoor and FOH counterpart Jonathan Strader.

The space is fairly familiar. If you ever ate at Flores, you’ll recognize the covered patio, two marble bars, reclaimed wood, and white brick walls. However, the feel is totally different. Dunsmoor devoted shelves above the stainless steel pass to his cookbook collections and decorative (drinkable) wine bottles. Even the soundtrack is different. Southern singer-songwriters like Lucinda Williams (“Can’t Let Go”), John Prine & Iris Dement (“In Spite of Ourselves”) and Townes Van Zandt (“Pancho & Lefty”) now enliven the room.

The menu is considerably more focused, with repeated hat tips to the seasons and The South. That’s where Georgia native Brian Dunsmoor started to develop his personal style. That’s becoming clearer now that he isn’t cooking alongside HandtheH partner Kris Tominaga on a daily basis. Dunsmoor seems to favor flavor-forward food that’s rooted in The South, with California accents. That’s welcome for me, a one-time Southerner. I’m basing this on the dishes I enjoyed at Monday night’s friends and family meal. Other convincing dishes appear in the Pantry; Field; Fish & Shellfish; Meat, Game & Poultry, and Dessert menu categories.

Grilled Peads & Barretts Pork Chop ($28) is one dish that demonstrates Dunsmoor’s intentions. Oliver Woolley sells this well-marbled slab with a melting, protective fat layer at the Santa Monica Farmers Market. The chop arrives on a Rose Bank cheese grits bed in a pool of rich red eye gravy. If you don’t know, red eye gravy traditionally features coffee and pork drippings. Dunsmoor supercharges the plate with a thick slice of salty griddled ham. He tempers the richness with a slightly bitter mustard “frills” thatch that add textural contrast. This pork chop is already one of the best in town. It will be interesting to see how Dunsmoor continues to demonstrate his Southern skills on Sawtelle.

Dose of Vitamin P spotlights my favorite pork dish from the previous week.