Daniel Son took over Kura Fine Japanese Cuisine from his father along the Sunset Strip in 2015 and transformed a fairly straightforward restaurant into a progressive sushi destination. The Korean-American chef attended The Culinary Institute of America and trained in Tokyo (Ryugin) and Copenhagen (Noma) before returning home.

Son practices traditional Edomae-style sushi, favors seasonality, and ages fish when appropriate. The rice is California-grown Koshihikari grains simply seasoned with akasu (red vinegar), salt, and a hint of sugar. The rice sports a slight tang and is served at body temperature. In most cases, Son tucks fresh wasabi root between rice and fish.

During a typical Kura omakase experience, Son prefers to group sushi into trios, so guests can compare and contrast. My favorite triptych during his reasonably priced omakase starred three different silver-skinned fish. These divisive fish are generally fattier, oilier, and more pungent, and I love them. Kura Fine Japanese Cuisine silver-skinned fish sushi was particularly good in Son’s hands. My sushi flight involved – from right to left – sawara, Spanish mackerel with scallions and ginger; sanma, pike mackerel that Son described as “one of my hall of fame fish”; and striped ha-katsuo, skipjack tuna garnished with scallions and ginger.