At Husk Restaurant a “celebration of Southern ingredients” from chef Sean Brock and his Neighborhood Dining Group partners in Charleston (and now Nashville), the ingredients and farmers are always at the forefront. As soon as you enter the two-story temple to The South, expect to find a blackboard that celebrates producers of everything from Thai Basil & Baby Chiogga (Cait Etherton), Benne (David Shields), Quail (Manchester Farms) and Little Neck Clams (Clammer Dave). I was surprised Husk didn’t list the ramps’ provenance, but the wild onion with the pronounced flavor and short growing season certainly gets enough publicity, particularly on the East Coast, and Husk kitchen knew what to do with them.
Hand-cut ribbons of Ramp Pasta ($13) were tossed with crispy country ham, English Peas, fava beans, shavings of grilled asparagus, and a single, centrally-located egg yolk dusted with spicy espelette that served as the sauce. Of course, there may also have been a tiny bit of herb-flecked butter. Maybe more than a bit. After all, Charleston is still The South.
Dose of Vitamin P spotlights my favorite pork dish from the previous week.