Hatfield’s: More Gastronomy Than Glitz on Melrose at 2.0 [CLOSED]

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Restaurant Los Angeles


Charred Japanese Mackerel was the beginning of our regularly scheduled prix fixe, and it was a great dish, combining strips of juicy fish that was surprisingly mild for mackerel, a notoriously oily fish. Dividing the fish were thin strips of ripe avocado and oven-dried pineapple that wasn’t overly sweet. Up top, fried shallots added sweetness and crunch. Down below, herbaceous salsa verde was infused with nori. With the mackerel, Birmingham paired 2007 Oppidum Moscato de Terracina Secco, a wine that smelled sweet but defied its aroma with a dry body.

Seafood Los Angeles
Pan Roasted Diver Scallops were surprisingly simple in comparison, but still highly satisfying. The seared scallops were plated on a salsify puree and spooned with an apple froth that hid thin-shaved celery. Birmingham poured a Chenin Blanc that provided a crisp minerality that balanced the sweetness of sea scallop.

Seafood Los Angeles
Pan Seared Dorado was expertly cooked, a juicy sea bream fillet with shatteringly thin skin. Accompaniments included Chinese broccoli stalks, sweet carrot puree and assorted mushrooms. Birmingham brought a glass of 2007 Cambria Pinot Noir from Julia’s Vineyard in Santa Maria Valley, touting the wine’s berry sweetness. It seemed like a Pinot Noir might overpower a white fish, but that wasn’t the case.

Seafood Los Angeles
Even though it wasn’t my favorite dish of the meal, in many ways, Prawns a la Plancha Espelette was the most compelling. It was seemingly a playful take on shrimp and grits that drew from Spain and Asia. Subbing for the grits were creamy crab rice. The pepper-crusted shrimp were sprinkled with crushed peanuts and balanced by preserved lemon. 2006 Piesporter Grans-Fassian Riesling was too sweet for my taste, even with the well-spiced dish.

Duck Los Angeles
Long Island Duck Breast was another winner, with rosy meat cooked sous vide and seared so the skin was nice and crisp. Cubes of subtly sweet butternut squash anchored the opposite end of the plate. Another interesting element was the quinoa, tiny grains with unmistakable outer coils that Quinn Hatfield turned into a creamy porridge. Our pairing: 2003 Fantelli Gran Reserva, a tempranillo-Malbec blend from Argentina that held up to the rich duck meat.

Steak Los Angeles
Horseradish Dusted Short Ribs were slow-braised until meltingly tender, but would have been even more enjoyable with some caramelization. Hanger Steak appeared on a bed of spring onion confit that packed the richness of caramelized onions or roasted garlic cloves, but the steak would have benefited from a more pronounced sear. With the beef, Birmingham paired a full bodied 2007 J Dusi Zinfandel, “first among firsts for Zinfandel,” produced by the granddaughter of well known Paso Robles grape grower Dante Dusi.

Karen Hatfield not only presided over the dining room, she also crafted a well-balanced five-item dessert menu, with options costing $10 apiece.

Dessert Los Angeles
Karen Hatfield re-imagined classic desserts in inventive ways, including a Lime Cream “Pie” with gingersnap crust. The tart rectangle-shaped lime curd was topped with whipped cream that suspended an oat-lined tuile. Plump black currants, chunks of crunchy oatmeal crumble and a silky scoop of citrus chamomile ice cream completed the dessert. Birmingham paired the dessert with La Bellanotte, a sweet, viscous Italian dessert wine that, interesting enough, was muted by the dessert’s acidity.

Dessert Los Angeles
Cinnamon Swirl Brioche Pudding was slightly more conventional, but just as well executed. The square of buttery brioche hosted sweet diced pear confit and a crisp, razor-thin sheet cinnamon toast. Other elements included maple syrup ice cream and a sticky pool of dark caramel. The pairing: 2006 Casta Diva Dogese Gutierrez de la Veza, which offered honey sweetness.

Even though Hatfield’s was only three weeks into its run, it was clear that Quinn and Karen Hatfield have progressed since my now-distant first meal at their restaurant. Hatfield’s 2.0 already offers one of the more compelling menus in the city, and as the couple becomes more accustomed to their new space, it’s inevitable that their cooking will become even more assured.

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Joshua Lurie

Joshua Lurie founded FoodGPS in 2005. Read about him here.

Blog Comments

very true Josh, that is where the reference comes from. I agree that this version of Hatfield’s is better than the last, if only because the ambiance is better (the other one was quaint), and the kitchen is more able to produce a wider variety of excellent dishes. my take is on the way…

Nice review, my sentiments are nearly reflected in your words and thoughts. I hope it isn’t called Hatfield’s 2.0 because that implies a sort of pop-up thing. I hope Hatfield’s stays at this location for a long time and commemorates its history as the original Citrus location.

Matt, I didn’t mean to imply anything negative with the 2.0 reference. In the software world, where the 2.0, 3.0 references came from, it implies a fine-tuned or improved version of the original.

Can’t wait to try 2.0!

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