Hatchet Hall Fuss & Feathers Seafood Trio (Food of the Week)

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Supper Club Los Angeles

Fuss & Feathers uses classic cooking techniques and seasonal American ingredients.

Hatchet Hall was already Culver City’s best restaurant, but that apparently wasn’t good enough for chef Brian Dunsmoor and front of house partner Jonathan Strader. The duo debuted a “modern American supper club” called Fuss & Feathers in the restaurant’s private dining room “inspired by the recipes and techniques of America’s earlier days.”

According to the literature, “Old Fuss & Feathers was the name given to General Winfield Scott, the longest standing officer in American history. General Scott was also America’s most infamous gourmet. In a letter re-assigning another officer to Chesapeake Bay he famously wrote, ‘You are very fortunate…it is just the season for soft-shell crabs, and hogfish have just come in, and they are the most delicious pan fish you ever ate.’ He later retired in the same building as Delmonico’s to reduce traveling due to his substantial weight.”

Dunsmoor introduced each course and humbly stated, “We’re just fucking around with American food.” He elaborated by saying, “No machinery, no electricity, everything sourced from America, and everything coming out of our hearth.”

One single seafood course delivered enough a wallop to warrant a ticket at Fuss & Feathers, which costs $150 per person and spans 13 riveting courses. Dunsmoor partially submerged local spot prawns in corn milk to accentuate the prized shellfish’s natural sweetness, topped with bursting red roe, and garnished with fresh-grated lime zest and tiny edible flowers before plating. Sweet tufts of pulled red rock crab meat luxuriated in old-fashioned vinegar with more delicate herbs. Finally, Dunsmoor sliced local yellowtail and dressed with tart green strawberry vinegar, basil leaves and buds.


Joshua Lurie

Joshua Lurie founded FoodGPS in 2005. Read about him here.

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