“This above all: to thine own self be true.” Armenian-Russian owners Nick and Mila inherited a Shakespearean name when they took over Hamlet’s Kitchen in 1997, but that famous quote certainly applies to their Glendale restaurant.

Hamlet’s Kitchen occupies Unit Z in back of Plaza Ararat, featuring a single indoor table, and patio with four tables that wrap around trees on stacked barrel planters. Despite the total lack of curb appeal, they’ve thrived on the food’s strength.

A three-pronged food program features a grill room, kitchen, and grab-and-go dumpling freezer. Yerevan born Vic Sarkisyan char-grills kebabs to heights that few other Angelenos can reach, but he humbly calls himself “just a cook.”

Sarkisyan grills four pork cuts: chops, ribs, and boneless shoulder, which they call “neck,” plus baby pork wrist, which he calls “the best one.” “Pork wrist” is a misnomer, since these meaty bones are actually rib tips. He marinates the meat overnight in a mix of salt, pepper, paprika, water and onion. Each deeply savory, masterfully grilled plate ($15) includes choice of white rice or fried potato slabs, roasted tomato and pepper, raw onion and parsley, and lavash.

Dose of Vitamin P spotlights my favorite pork dish from the previous week.