Hinoki & the Bird Roasted Yam

Yam Los Angeles

Century City, that concrete labyrinth of law offices, agent dwellings and shops, has hardly been known for surprises in my experience. Well, there was that one time I rode on the elevator with President Reagan in Fox Plaza, but in the past decade, nada. That changed when I first stepped into Hinoki & The Bird, the new restaurant from globe-trotting chef David Myers and one of his culinary lieutenants, Kuniko Yagi, who clocked time in “Sona” and is probably best known for her recent appearance on “Top Chef.” The space is tucked away on a side street called Century Drive, at the base of a condo complex some developer imaginatively called The Century. Walk through the door and unlock a hidden world that involves an open kitchen, showcase bar and what’s already one of the hottest patios in L.A., complete with decorative wood beams and plenty of greenery. Another surprise on a diverse Asian menu was a seemingly simple Side of Roasted Yam ($9). The fun play on a loaded baked potato sports crisp skin, a sweet core, mild red chilies, tart ume crème fraiche and savory lardons. How this yam didn’t end up in the Fun Bites section of the menu is another mystery.

Address: 10 Century Drive, Los Angeles, CA 90067

Joshua Lurie

Joshua Lurie founded FoodGPS in 2005. Read about him here.

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