Whole animal butchery has become part of the local, organic and sustainable movement, and in Los Angeles, establishments like Lindy & Grundy, Tender Greens and Locanda del Lago have built events around what will hopefully transcend a trend. After all, if an animal pays the ultimate price, eaters might as well honor the creature by devouring every morsel from nose to tail, a la Fergus Henderson. Eveleigh, the rare restaurant that considers substance on the Sunset Strip, instituted Sunday Suppers, featuring a butchery demo and multi-course meal most months, spotlighting a particular animal and ranch. They previous featured Devil’s Gulch pig, Windrose Farm lamb, local fish, and for Sunday Supper 4: BN Ranch Beef.
Eveleigh invited us to join their communal table in the airy back room, surrounded by reclaimed wood and overlooking the city, for a meal that would have cost $55 per person.
Executive Chef Jordan Toft spent several years cooking in Europe before Eveleigh’s owners convinced him to relocate to Los Angeles.
Chef Toft said, “Breaking down a whole cow was a little bit of a stretch.” However, they had help handy from a tray of tools. Toft told the tale of the Angus, which came from famous rancher Bill Niman. The cow fed for last month on grass and wild nettles before being slaughtered on June 26. Toft dry-aged the Angus for the three weeks leading up to the event.
Eveleigh’s manager said the purpose of these Sunday Suppers isn’t to earn money; it’s to show animals’ range and to help educate diners while having good food as a community. Considering the cost ($55), the quality and quantity of the meal, that’s believable.
Eveleigh’s whole animal cause continues on September 30 with another Sunday Supper starring Rossotti Ranch Pasture Raised Veal from Marin County.
Note: Eveleigh hosted us for Sunday Supper 4.