Eveleigh: Sunday Supper 4 Goes Whole Beast with BN Ranch

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Sunday Supper Los Angeles

Eveleigh features different ranches and proteins for their Sunday Suppers.

Whole animal butchery has become part of the local, organic and sustainable movement, and in Los Angeles, establishments like Lindy & Grundy, Tender Greens and Locanda del Lago have built events around what will hopefully transcend a trend. After all, if an animal pays the ultimate price, eaters might as well honor the creature by devouring every morsel from nose to tail, a la Fergus Henderson. Eveleigh, the rare restaurant that considers substance on the Sunset Strip, instituted Sunday Suppers, featuring a butchery demo and multi-course meal most months, spotlighting a particular animal and ranch. They previously featured Devil’s Gulch pig, Windrose Farm lamb, local fish, and for Sunday Supper 4: BN Ranch Beef.

Eveleigh invited us to join their communal table in the airy back room, surrounded by reclaimed wood and overlooking the city, for a meal that would have cost $55 per person.

Executive Chef Jordan Toft spent several years cooking in Europe before Eveleigh’s owners convinced him to relocate to Los Angeles.

Butcher Tools Los Angeles

Toft led the butchery demo at the back bar with chef de cuisine Jared Levy, who we met when he led BottleRock Downtown.

Chef Toft said, “Breaking down a whole cow was a little bit of a stretch.” However, they had help handy from a tray of tools. Toft told the tale of the Angus, which came from famous rancher Bill Niman. The cow fed for last month on grass and wild nettles before being slaughtered on June 26. Toft dry-aged the Angus for the three weeks leading up to the event.

Chefs Los Angeles

For the butchery demo, chefs Toft and Levy started by sawing rib-eye before moved on to New York steak.

Cocktail Los Angeles

Eveleigh bartender Kiowa Bryan prepared a floral Spritz de Provence: gin, lavender, Cocchi Americano, Farigoule liqueur de Provence, fresh lemon and soda.

Hamburger Los Angeles

It’s auspicious when the “snack to start” is an Eveleigh Burger, rosy grass fed beef with bread and butter pickles, Fontina, arugula, raw red onion and aioli on soft brioche.

Beef Los Angeles

For the “Family,” Eveleigh staffers served Bresaola, air dried beef, salted and hung in cellar, served with grated horseradish and olive oil.

Beef Los Angeles

Each of us received a “Plate” of cellar-aged sirloin tartar dressed with organic egg yolk, finely diced onion, pickle and cilantro, with sea salt and Dijon to finish.

Beef Los Angeles

The next “Family” serving consisted of BBQ brisket, smoked for 12 hours over applewood, chive-showered slaw, a tiny metal pitcher of slaw “milk” and house baked white bread.

Pasta Los Angeles

The parade of “Plates” continued with tagliatelle, short rib ragù and Parmigiano-Reggiano.

Steak Los Angeles

Near the end of the meal, when people at the communal table had consumed enough wine to actually start acting like “Family,” we received a cellar-aged, bone-in ribeye with concentrated flavor. Chef Toft encouraged us to apply beef butter with sherry vinegar using a thyme brush. We also received demi-glace, roasted garlic and onion.

Potatoes Los Angeles

With the steak, we received fried Onaway potatoes with red pepper aioli.

Salad Los Angeles

Bitter greens joined mustard anchovy dressing.

Dessert Los Angeles

Dessert involved summer berries, cherries, black fig ice cream, and crisp meringue.

Eveleigh’s manager said the purpose of these Sunday Suppers isn’t to earn money; it’s to show animals’ range and to help educate diners while having good food as a community. Considering the cost ($55), the quality and quantity of the meal, that’s believable.

Eveleigh’s whole animal cause continues on September 30 with another Sunday Supper starring Rossotti Ranch Pasture Raised Veal from Marin County.

Note: Eveleigh hosted us for Sunday Supper 4.


Joshua Lurie

Joshua Lurie founded FoodGPS in 2005. Read about him here.

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