Rice’s versatility is on full display at E&J Yummy Kitchen. This focused Hong Kong style Chinese restaurant with two-toned walls and an ocean mural opened in a Monterey Park plaza in 2015. They feature the ubiquitous grain in wok-fried chow fun and vermicelli dishes, fried rice, and porridge. However, rice noodle rolls, aka cheong fun, are their greatest strength.

E&J Yummy Kitchen Rice Noodle Rolls ($3.25) are a bargain at twice the price and come with a range of fillings. I enjoyed the version with chopped BBQ pork. Really though, it’s all about the rice noodle rolls with shrimp. Folds on folds of delicate rice noodles cradle sweet, plump shelled shrimp in a shallow sweet soy sauce pool. Spend an extra $2 to fold two eggs into the mix. Eggs add some welcome heft and are well worth the investment.