At Yunnan Garden in San Gabriel, you could completely ignore the menu and still feast like royalty at pauper’s prices. Just belly up to the display case and fill a plate with a trio of cold “appetizers” for just $3.95. On my recent visit, every selection was excellent. I would gladly write essays on the wonders of the restaurant’s smoked duck necks and chicken gizzards. Since this is Dose of Vitamin P, let’s focus on thin-sliced pork hearts.

SPQR pork hearts in San Francisco were hearty, but chewy. Yunnan Garden’s thin-sliced version involved a tender cold cut washed with chile oil, sesame seeds, an scallions. Rosy sheets arrived showered with dried chilies, but don’t let that fool you. The flavor was far from fiery.

David and Wendy Yin own a branch of Yunnan Garden in Hacienda Heights. They also operate a sister establishment called Yun Chuan Garden in Monterey Park, but I can’t vouch for their pork hearts.

Dose of Vitamin P spotlights my favorite pork dish from the previous week.