The landscape of the Beverly Hills dining scene changed when Bouchon Beverly Hills debuted in November. Thomas Keller’s arrival signaled a paradigm shift in the city’s high-end dining scene. Established restaurants like Spago had little to fear, since they’re already so respected. However, newer restaurants without the fanfare or followings were forced to step up their game, or at least shout a little louder. I’m guessing that had something to do with an invite from Parq’s publicist to dine at the Montage hotel’s restaurant. Parq has been open since November 2008, but the restaurant was eclipsed by the glare emanating from across the courtyard at Bouchon. Still, Parq does hold certain charms, including a surprisingly relaxed dining room with hand-painted Portuguese tiles and some fairly hearty food from Executive Chef John Cuevas. During my recent dinner, the appetizers and entrees were all relatively solid, but no plate impressed more than this week’s Dose of Vitamin P: Sauteed Wild Striped Bass (normally $31).

The flaky fillet had a golden sear and was bathed in a surprisingly light chowder loaded with potatoes, herbs and most importantly, cubes of pork belly. The cubes of bacon imparted a smoky quality that elevated the dish. Up top, the bass was topped with a thatch of punchy pickled fennel, supple charred peppers and microgreens.

Dose of Vitamin P spotlights my favorite pork dish from the previous week.

12/11/13 Update: Parq is no longer open for business.