There are certain chefs that are able to tap into a neighborhood’s collective ethos at exactly the right time. Nancy Silverton and Mario Batali tamed Melrose in 2007, Jon Shook and Vinny Dotolo conquered Fairfax in 2008, and based on early returns, it looks like Little Tokyo may belong to Josef Centeno in 2010.
Several dishes at Lazy Ox Canteen have already captured the imagination of Angelenos. For example, crispy pig ears arrive in a thatch of supple strips, each with a crunchy cartilage vein. The ears are lightly coated with flour, deep fried and served with several condiments that help to cut the pork’s richness, including creamy horseradish aioli, thin-shaved radishes, tangy pickled turnips and cilantro. Rounding out the plate, a single slice of lime, which adds bright acidity.
Dose of Vitamin P spotlights my favorite pork dish from the previous week.