Drago Centro is Celestino Drago’s latest contribution to the L.A. dining scene, a modern glass-fronted restaurant that draws downtown bankers like bulls to red capes. Ian Gresik helms the Italian kitchen on a daily basis, turning out dishes like “la pancetta brasata” ($12), a crispy cross section of pork belly plated with nutty farro, wilted spinach and blueberries. The meaty rectangle practically oozed pork juice (that’s a good thing) and featured a nice sear on the top of bottom, with a central layer of melting fat. The sweet berries were a somewhat unnatural pairing; pork belly works better with a bitter or acidic element to counterbalance the pork’s richness. Just look to Animal’s fried pork belly with house-made kimchi for example #1. Still, Drago Centro’s pork belly was clearly the best pork dish from last week.
Dose of Vitamin P spotlights my favorite pork dish from the previous week.