Chef Dan Mattern and the wood-burning grill at Cooks County join forces to create magic. Every meal I enjoy at the Mid-City restaurant he runs with Roxana Jullapat, Claudio Blotta and Adria Tennor Blotta yields at least one great dish that benefits from either mesquite or applewood. Their latest victory: Pork Porterhouse ($23).

Pork Porterhouse is a cut that’s gained popularity. This lean, sweet, ham-like meat and backbone cut yields especially succulent bites. Mattern wasn’t at Cooks County during my recent dinner with friends, but the results were still outstanding. His team plated a seared pork porterhouse on a soft polenta pool with sautéed spinach and grilled Jimmy Nardello peppers. The pepers were mild, but still provided textural contrast, smoky flavor, and a vivid reminder of summer.

Dose of Vitamin P spotlights my favorite pork dish from the previous week.