Despite what FiveThirtyEight pundits claim, many L.A. burritos are far superior to San Francisco’s sloppy, over-sized Mission burritos. A new entry in the burrito pantheon resides at Cofax Coffee, a Fairfax coffee bar from Jason Bernstein and James Starr, which simultaneously honors legendary pitcher Sandy Koufax while serving a serious burrito.
The Dodger theme is clear in the name, and also the color scheme, where Dodger blue graces the awning. Inside, Dodger bobbleheads and Stumptown coffee bags accent white subway tile, blonde wood counters and benches. Most people were burrito-ing during my visit.
Chef Noah Galuten, who also works at sister establishments Bludso’s Bar & Que, The Golden State and Prime Pizza, developed the Chorizo Burrito ($6.50), which is pleasantly compact. A supple griddled flour tortilla contains a smoky potato and tomatillo hash, which bathes in wood smoke at Bludso’s before joining chorizo, onions and peppers in a fine stir fry. Scrambled egg, pico de gallo and crunchy crushed tortilla chips complete the savory picture. Avocado can also join the party if you invest an extra buck. Either way, the burrito comes foil-wrapped, then wrapped again in canary yellow paper, along with a couple containers of house-made salsa. Salsa verde, which is on the tangier side, touts smoked tomatillos, garlic, and charred serrano chiles. A spicier Salsa rojo combines the collective talents of pan-fried chile de arbol, garlic, and charred tomatoes. Both salsas were on the thin side, which would have bothered me more in a taco. In a burrito, the salsa just seeps into the flavorful core.
Another enthusiastic burrito eater, who was sitting by me on the bench, asked, “Is this not the best thing you’ve ever eaten?” As I told him, “Not exactly, but it is a very good burrito.”