Chefs have become enamored with “everything,” an all-inclusive preparation that draws on the long-held New York tradition, created by David Gussin, of lining bagels with just about every seed and spice in sight. Learn about four of the best examples of “everything” in Los Angeles.
Numbered establishments on the map correspond to information below for easy reference. Establishments also appear in alphabetical order instead of in order of preference.
1. Bar Nine Collective Everything Biscuit ($3) [NO LONGER AVAILABLE]
Kalen Hermanson, a protégée of Hourie Sahakian at Short Cake, is now turning out slightly off-center baked goods at this industrial coffeehouse near Culver City’s Hayden Tract. She recently rolled out an Everything Biscuit with cream cheese folded into the batter, which lightens rectangular results that come coated with sesame, poppy and caraway seeds, toasted garlic and dehydrated onion.
2. Brooklyn Bagel Bakery Everything Bagel ($0.95): This L.A. institution from Seymour Friedman started baking New York style bagels in 1953. Richard Friedman carries on the family tradition at a location that’s operated in Historic Filipinotown since 1965. Their crusty, chewy everything bagels are water boiled, hearth baked, coated and clogged with “the works,” a combination of onion strands, poppy seeds, garlic and sesame seeds. Bonus: bagels are half-price after 3 pm. Just don’t ask Brooklyn to toast any bagels. Not gonna happen.
3. Plan Check Salmon Pastrami ($13.50): Chef Ernesto Uchimura, who’s helped to modernize L.A. comfort food, honors Jewish traditions in the second neighborhood Plan Check has graced. Salmon Pastrami, a rosy, skin-on fillet that’s prepared like the fish’s meaty namesake, arrives in a cast iron skillet with green peppercorns, minced brined celery, borage, and a crispy everything bagel chip coated with ink-black cream cheese.
4. Superba Food & Bread Everything Croissant ($5): Standout Superba pastry chef Lincoln Carson inserts pats of cream cheese inside a flaky croissant and applies a liberal helping of “bagel spices” up top, including black and white sesame seeds, poppy seeds, garlic, onion, and a savory hit from black pepper and flakes of Maldon sea salt. Carson found inspiration from frequent trips to Beauty’s Bagels while he was living in Oakland.
If you know other L.A. examples of “everything,” please let me know in the comments.