Adam Perry Lang pivoted from smoking barbecue on Jimmy Kimmel’s backlot to broiling dry-aged steaks at his hotly anticipated APL Restaurant in Hollywood. Don’t worry, serving stupendous meat is still very much his core mission at this nouveau retro restaurant near the corner of Hollywood & Vine. Consider the fact that bacon qualifies as a starter.

Ultra-savory, thick-cut bacon ($18) is buffeted in-house using smoldering oak wood in a J&R electric assisted smoker. Two fat-streaked, beautifully seared slabs come from pigs sourced on the same Nebraska farm as APL’s beef. It’s also possible to order an iceberg wedge with Danish blue cheese and the same bacon, for diners looking to achieve a bit more balance.

Dose of Vitamin P spotlights my favorite pork dish from the previous week.