Bestia Ciccioli

Italian Food Los Angeles

Ciccioli is an Emilia Romagna style pan-fried pork cake made using subprimal parts that tastes great at Bestia.

Chef Ori Menashe’s passion for pork (and whole animal butchery) knows no bounds. Pan-Fried Ciccioli ($14) at Bestia is the latest evidence. This pork cake from Italy’s Emilia Romagna region is traditionally crafted from spare pork parts and is particularly good at this industrial chic, primarily Italian restaurant in downtown L.A.’s Arts District.

At Bestia, no scrap of any animal gets left behind. They form pork cakes using neck meat, shoulder meat, and rib eye. Collagen-filled trotter helps to bind the united Dose of Vitamin P. Together, the parts cook down with white wine, and then they form a terrine. Each slice gets a light coat of breadcrumbs and pan-fries with butter and olive oil. As you might imagine, this is not an innately light dish. Menashe and his crew balance the plate by adding pears, creme fraiche, pea tendrils, pickled fennel, and fennel pollen.

It’s no surprise that Bestia continues to produce tasty creations from parts that less enterprising chefs might let go to waste. After all, getting maximum mileage from overlooked ingredients is the Italian way.

Dose of Vitamin P spotlights my favorite pork dish from the previous week.

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Joshua Lurie

Joshua Lurie founded FoodGPS in 2005. Read about him here.

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