It took awhile for the promise of Grand Central Market to become a reality, but downtown L.A.’s retooled culinary destination, which dates to 1917, has finally reached critical mass. One of the key cogs in credibility has been Wexler’s Deli, an old school Jewish deli counter from chef Micah Wexler, front of house partner Mike Kassar, and key investors like Pitfire Pizza co-founder David Sanfield and ESPN Radio personality Ben Lyons. People have rightly praised Wexler’s house-smoked meats and fish, and the retro deli also has an excellent egg salad sandwich: the Ruskie ($9).
Micah Wexler folds soft-boiled eggs with house-made mayo, mustard, coriander and herbs, and serves a massive pastel yellow heap of egg salad on a warm onion-studded Kaiser roll with sweet-tart bread and butter pickles. The bread’s got plenty of give, but there’s so much egg salad that it spills from the sides when lifting from the butcher paper-lined tray. I’m not sure about the origin of the sandwich’s name, but it’s inevitable that eaters would embrace the flavorful sandwich equally well in Grand Central Market and Moscow.