It’s not like Kris Morningstar had to convince anybody he’s a believer in pork. Terrine‘s chef/partner has built an impressive resume since his days at Blue Velvet, where he dazzled diners with wild boar tenderloin. Since then, at restaurants like District and Ray’s & Stark Bar, pork has been a key player. He even competed at Cochon 555. Now, he’s teamed with restaurateur Stephane Bombet and front of house maestro Francois Renaud on a patio-centric spot in Mid-City, and they’re featuring a pork-fueled Pig & Co. menu on Monday nights.
Each week, the Pig & Co. menu features a diagram of a suckling pig with arrows pointing to featured parts, along with dish descriptions, and a count on servings for each dish. Terrine invited me to experience Pig & Co. on April 13. Morningstar served dishes like Crispy Head, Pressé of Confit Shoulder and Pig Head Ragu, but Wood Roasted Trotter ($22) was the star.
Terrine roasts with oak wood, which imparted a smoky quality to the hoof. The trotter is cooked with baby carrots and onions, which also end up on the plate. Morningstar crafts a powerfully flavorful cooking liquid with chicken stock, maple syrup, sage, black pepper, clove and bay leaves. He finishes the reduction with enlightening cider vinegar and parsley. The result is sticky, caramelized pork skin that cradles rosy meat. Trotter requires careful chewing, since there are so many small bones, but this dish is clearly worth the trouble.
Dose of Vitamin P spotlights my favorite pork dish from the previous week.