When Steve Samson starting focusing on Rossoblu, the new Bologna-style Italian restaurant he opened with wife/partner Dina in DTLA’s Fashion District, it was impossible for him to spend nearly as much time at their original restaurant: Sotto. Steve Samson is one of L.A.’s most talented Italian chefs, so this was no small absence. Combined with chef de cuisine Daniel Cutler’s departure to open Ronan on Melrose with wife Caitlin, Sotto’s kitchen had two big holes to fill. Samson promoted Craig Towe to chef de cuisine, and at a dinner that celebrated their 7½ year anniversary, his orchestration of several classic dishes proved hat Sotto is still going strong in Beverlywood.

Linguine alla Bottarga ($26) was a particularly good plate, featuring a carefully coiffed tower of house-made pasta that delivered good bite. Towe’s team tossed the linguine with tangy lemon juice, spicy chile flakes, bright parsley, and crispy breadcrumbs and finished with umami-rich cured mullet roe that’s grated before serving.