Bloody Marys can be great at brunch, combining savory and spice notes that complement popular dishes like eggs Benedict, breakfast sandwiches, shrimp and grits, and of course bacon. At majestic Redbird in downtown Los Angeles, beverage director Tobin Shea serves a textbook Classic Mary, but also riffs on the original with his Modern Mary.

Modern Mary ($14) is even more refreshing, combining clarified tomato juice, clarified lemon juice, tangy white balsamic, fennel, basil, and spicy pepper vodka. The drink arrives fizzy from soda and extra fresh from the towering celery stalk that runs up the side of your glass.