The transformation of L.A. Chinatown is now in high gear, and globe-trotting Chef Andy Ricker is playing a key role. The Portland-based chef, who spends considerable time in New York, Thailand, and now L.A., debuted a branch of Pok Pok Phat Thai last year in Far East Plaza. This fall, he debuted full-service Pok Pok LA restaurant up Broadway at Mandarin Plaza in Chinatown. The space features wood panels, an olive green ceiling, and shaded patio. Ricker has crafted a sizable, share-friendly menu of boldly flavored Thai food. So far, Sii Khrong Muu Yaang is my favorite Pok Pok LA dish.

Sii Khrong Muu Yaang ($18) falls under the menu section titled Khawng Yaang (Grilled Things). Ricker and his team clearly have a nice touch with meat. These baby back ribs are marinated in lao jiin, soy, honey, ginger and Thai spices and slow roasted until lacquered. The juicy rib quartet arrived with two dipping sauces: sweet chile, and even better, gritty black pepper. I was surprised how few ribs came in the order, but at least they tasted good. Next time, I just may need to make it a double.

Dose of Vitamin P spotlights my favorite pork dish from the previous week.