It’s about time somebody is helping to bring back the fried bologna sandwich in L.A. Last year, Chef Susan Feniger got my hopes up about the sandwich of my youth, which I’ve chronicled in a personal essay about Childhood Food Memories. I still haven’t seen a fried bologna sandwich on the Mud Hen Tavern menu, but Chef Josef Centeno recently introduced a fried “bologna” sandwich to Pete’s, which he retooled with Pete McLaughlin in downtown L.A.’s Old Bank District. Better yet, the sandwich is available for breakfast.

Since this is Chef Centeno we’re talking about, a man who’s already delivered progressive food to the block at Bäco Mercat<, Bar Ama and Orsa & Winston, I wasn’t surprised to find his Fried “Bologna” Sandwich ($8) deliver a bit of a twist. Instead of bologna, Pete’s features mortadella, which is made in-house with pork butt and studded with pistachios. He griddles and stacks slices on a toasted English muffin with Swiss cheese and mayo. A shower of chives completes the savory picture.

Chef Centeno also serves Taylor pork roll at breakfast, which is New Jersey’s equivalent to SPAM, and another pork product I enjoyed regularly in the Mountain Park Elementary School cafeteria. Unfortunately, my stomach could only support one taste of childhood for breakfast. Good thing I get the sense that Pete’s will be around for awhile.

Dose of Vitamin P spotlights my favorite pork dish from the previous week.